Home again!

San Francisco Bay - August 9, 2006

It is a couple of weeks earlier than planned, but I am home again.

I have traveled through San Francisco - Chicago - London - Sweden - Russia - Qatar - Thailand - China - Cambodia - Thailand - Japan - San Francisco, in just 9 weeks.

But I miss my sweetheart and our comfortable home. The world is a fascinating place - and there's so much more for me to see. In fact, Mano, Rennie and I are talking about heading back out in October. But for now, there's no place I'd rather be than here at home!

Thailand: My "buddy," the criminal

4 August, 2549: Bangkok

I have arrived back in Thailand, and the year is 2549!

It is true... but not because I have somehow time-warped 543 years into the future. The Thai calendar is based on the death of Buddha, whereas we base our calendar on the death of Jesus Christ. Please, don't get me started on the whole subject of imposing religous values on the rest of the world by referring to our calendar as "AD: After Death of Jesus" instead of using something non-religous like "CE: Common Era").

My "buddy," the criminal

Anyway, there is trouble in my former home country of Thailand. I guess most of you know that I lived in Thailand for two years, back in 1989-1990. During that time, I was friends (business acquaintances, really) with a powerful businessman named Thaksin Shinawatra. He gave me a room in his building, and signed a contract for me to work in his TV station as the first Caucasian TV host in Thailand.

Well, guess what? Thaksin is now the Prime Minister of Thailand.

But this is NOT something that I can brag about here in Thailand. Thaksin is widely-hated by the Thai people. He is in deep trouble over charges of corruption and election-rigging, and - worst of all - showing disrespect for the King. (Thailand's much-loved King is the longest-reigning monarch in the world.)

Just a few months ago, the Thai people took to the streets in protest and demanded his resignation. The protests turned violent, and the King had to intervene. Recent (likely-rigged) elections were inavlidated, and the country's current political situation is in crisis. This is especially troubling, given that Thailand has a history of violent uprisings and military coups. (Although the fact that I can sit here and post this story in a public cafe in Bangkok is evidence of how advanced the country is compared to it's neighbors!)

Regardless, I certainly will not be telling ANYONE about my former beer-drinking and karaoke-singing pal from years ago - who is now the "#1 criminal" in Thailand.

Angkor what?

August 2, 2006

The main reason for me to be here in Cambodia is to see the incredible temples near Siem Reap. I'll spare you the history, and just tell you that this was where the Khmer Empire built most of the royal palaces in their heyday.

World famous, and you can see why! I have been lucky enough to see some great hostorical sites: Machu Picchu; Tikal in Guatemala; Chichen-Itza in Mexico; the pyramids of Giza in Egypt, etc. But the Temples of Angkor MUST rank at or near the top of my list. So incredible!

I am really tired now, so I am seriously considering ending my journey soon. It's been two months on the road, but I really miss Mano, and my comfortable life back home!

Cambodia - the poor truth

August 1st, 2006: Cambodia

I nervously joined dozens of other travelers at the pier in Phnom Penh early yesterday morning, and crowded on to the overloaded boat that would take us all for the 6-hour journey up the Tonle Sap river. Dozens of people hanging from the railings above, while I sat below clutching my backpack. Yep, it was a long ride.

I must keep reminding myself that Cambodia has been ravaged by wars and genocide, and thus, I should expect to see things that make me uncomfortable. The views of life along the river provided many of those uncomfortable moments. I don't think I have ever seen human beings living with so little. Thatched roof huts sit on bamboo stilts, and entire families live in one simple room. No water, no electricity, and - how shall I say - very hygiene-challenged.

But I also saw something else. Almost without exception, each person would smile and wave as our crowded boat chugged by. Living with so little - yet seemingly happy enough. It was a good life lesson for me that day.

Drinks are cheap - and so is life
Both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have several "Pub Streets" that are geared specifically for the many foreign tourists. It is so cheap for us to visit here - and backpackers love it! Beers and cocktails cost around $2, a taxi to anywhere will cost $1 or $2, and complete dinners are under $3! You can sit along the raised sidewalk cafes and enjoy a great, cheap meal as you watch the nightlife all around you.

But here's what KILLS me to see - the children begging on the street. Imagine sitting up on your "tourist perch" while little children - some barely able to walk - continually come by to tug at your pant leg and beg for money? And you can't give them food either, 'cause it's cash they are after. Most of them are probably being controlled by parents or other adults, lurking just in the shadows. It is absolutely embarassing for me to enjoy the "luxurious" moment, knowing that there is so much poverty all around me. I'm ashamed, actually.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

July 29, 2006

After a rather lengthy trek through Southern China, and a short flight across Vietnam, I arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia late last night.

Although this is a capital city of over one million people, the streets were virtually deserted. But a day time stroll revealed an emerging metropolis that is bristling with energy! It's not a modern city, but it's not a village either. There are virtually no traffic signals or even stop signs anywhere - yet somehow the many drivers manage not to turn the streets into a demolition derby. But beware, pedestrians NEVER have the right-of-way in Cambodia. One important observation to pass along - there's not a single McDonalds, Starbucks, KFC, 7-11, or Pizza Hut to be found anywhere in Phnom Penh - nirvana!



At first glance, you might be forgiven for seeing similarities to their Thai neighbors, but I don't recommend suggesting that to a Cambodian - as the countries have had a not-always friendly co-existence. In fact, it was partly because of fighting with Thailand (Siam) and Vietnam, that the Cambodians asked for help from the French - who then promptly took control of the city too! So, interestingly, you will see a great deal of French language and architecture here in Phnom Penh, as well.

The Bloody Khmer Rouge
Cambodia has realistically only been open to tourism since around 1998. The Khmer Rouge (communist guerilla party) overtook this city, Phnom Penh, in 1975, and forced everyone out to work on farms. Phnom Penh, and other cities, were completely emptied - left to decay, as all citizens were made to live in the countryside.

The horror of Pol Pot's regime was just beginning, as the Khmer Rouge begin to systematically murder anyone who did not fit their vision of the future. Foreigners were killed immediately, as well as anyone who could not work on the farm - including those who simply wore glasses! I had lunch today with someone whose grandafther and uncle were both killed by the Khmer Rouge.

In fact, estimates of the dead range from 1 to 3 million! And that is out of a population of just 7 million. Imagine... one out of every 7 people in your own country being killed by your "leaders."

This country's nightmare ended just a few years ago. They held their first elections in 1998, the same year as the final surrender of remaining Khmer Rouge forces.

My best day in China!

July 26, 2006 - Yangshou, China

These are my last days in China - and they happen to be the best! Yesterday was everything I had hoped to experience from China. Perfect!

Traveling with my friend, Shawn from Shanghai, we rented bicycles and set out on our own adventure to experience the countryside. We had no guide, just a vague sense of direction - and a healthy tolerance for making wrong turns.

I hope you can see these photos (I will share more with you when I return to the USA). The scenery around the Li River is spectacular! Everywhere we traveled, we marveled at just how stunning the views were.

But even more interesting to me, were the people we met along the way. For example, at one farm house we stopped to say hi to an older man and woman, and inquired about the fruit they were eating. (Translated as "Yellow Skin Fruit" in Chinese, and tasting both sweet and sour. Yummy!) But instead of just eating from the tree, the woman insisted that we take the already-prepared fruit from inside her own house! Delightful.

At another stop, we met a young mother and her kids. The children were a bit frightened of me, but I tried to lighten the mood by pretending to play mahjong with them. I was doing my best to get them to see foreigners as friendly and not so scary. But sadly, there was a "part 2" to that story, and it was negative. I had paid 1 yuan (12 cents) to buy the children some frozen treats from their mother's roadside store. After that, however, I noticed that more and more children were appearing from the village. Several started to grab at me and then gesture to their mouth, as if they wanted something to eat. Shawn tells me that the mother had told the kids "If you say hello to this foreigner he will buy you some candy." We really wanted to yell at her for setting such a bad example. Instead of having fun simply interacting with someone from a different land, the mother had taught the kids that foreigners are a target to harass for money. Very disapointing.

But by far, the overwhelming feeling today was one of awe over the stunning beauty of the region. We got lost a few times, and our trek stretched out for well over 7 hours! But didn't really care. We saw things that most tourists would never stumble across - while carrying our bikes up rocky cliffs, or trying to keep our balance while riding along the narrow walls of rice paddies. I took literally hundreds of photos!

Later though, I discovered the danger of that beauty. I was walking backward while attempting to take a photo, and boom! I fell right into a hole in the road! Nearly broke my freaking leg! Hilarious!

That evening, after scrubbing away layers of dirt and grime, we were treated to a different type of entertainment. It was a theatrical extravanganza that has all of China flocking to attend. What's so unique about "Impression: Liu Sanjie?" Well, first of all, it is directed by Zhang Yimou, the man who directed such films as "Raise the Red Lantern;" "Hero;" and "House of Flying Daggers." (Note: If you haven't seen those films yet, rush right out and rent the DVD tonight - especially "Hero." They are great!)

The other unique aspect of the show is that it features 600 performers. Yup... SIX HUNDRED dancers and singers! When was the last time you saw 600 people choreographed in anything? But what makes this most impressive, is that the "stage" is the Li River! Every one of the performers is actually floating on the river - usually just on small bamboo rafts. Incredible. A perfect ending to a perfect day. All in all, I could not ask for a better ending to my time in China.

Racism along the river

July 25: Li Jiang, China

I am so pleased to be traveling this week with my Shanghai friend, Shawn. (He's the not-so-furry one in the photo.) He has brought along his laptop, so I can upload photos immediately. It's fun to share these pics with you so quickly, so thanks for checking them out!

But more importantly, I am fortunate to have a native Chinese person with me, to help me overcome the HUGE language difficulties I have experienced in this country. As a foreigner, it has been nearly impossible to get around - with his help, however, things have gone much more smooth.

Making little girls cry
Today, Shawn and I left the city of Guilin to begin a 4-hour journey down the Li River to Yangshou. On the shuttle bus, I sat near a 3-year old girl who was absolutely in shock to see her first non-Chinese person. Unfortunately, her gandfather next to her muttered something along the lines of "Oh no, a damn foreigner" and the little girl immediately began crying with fear. I did my best to say "Ni Hao" (Hello), etc - but her racist grandfather kept muttering negative comments. Shawn and I wanted to smack the old man, but that would only prove that his fear-mongering was right!

On the ship I realized that I was, indeed, the only non-Asian on board. Despite the fact that we were surrounded by some jaw-dropping scenery, I frequently found that people were taking pictures of me instead of the mountains! "Hello, hello" I would hear - and then I'd look up to see small children waving at me from the upper deck.

But it also worked in reverse. At one point I was a bit afraid to say hello to a nice-looking lad nearby, for fear of having nothing in common to talk about. But once I initiated, I discovered that he was quite adept at English. Turns out, he had been hoping to have a picture with me, as well. So here's a shot of my new friend "Yitian."

Obviously there are many types of racism. Some are quite vile and ignorant, while other types are just based on fear of not knowing what to say. Maybe the more we travel, we can help to erase a little of both!


Fishing with Birds
This is kind of cool, I think. Around Guilin, some fisherman are well-known for using trained comorants (wearing collars with leashes) to go out and snatch fish on their command. The birds will return the fish to the boat, in exchange for a small treat.


The gorgeous Li River

Here are a few shots of that jaw-dropping scenery I just mentioned:

Frogs, dogs, and snakes: Are you hungry yet?

July 24, 2006 Guilin China

I love travel! Something so mundane as going out for coffee can turn into a memorable experience.

At the restaurant, I pointed at the picture of the chocolate cake in the English menu. “No have” said the waitress. So I pointed at the picture of the fruit tart. “No have. Please read words.’ Apparently, the pictures were just items that they WISHED they could offer, but that I must order from the text listings. The only problem was, those words didn't seem to make sense.

Can you see the picture of my menu? (An actual photo.) For dessert, I was encouraged to order the “Baked (or stewed) Frog Ovals” – which it turns out, are actually Frog Ovaries. Quite a delicacy in these parts, I’m told.

No thanks. I’ll play it safe with the cheesecake, I guess. Well, I got exactly what I ordered: a cake – with CHEESE on top! Yup, a slice of mozzarella melted over the top of a creamy sponge cake. And just to show how fancy a joint this is, they garnished my “cheese cake” with slices of cucumber and tomatoes, with a sprig of parsley on top. Tasty! (Actual photo of my cheesey-cake.)

To be fair, I've had some great meals in China. For example, sizzling beef with melon; fragrant chicken in pandanus; and a pumpkin soup to die for! But if you have a taste for something a little less common, how about a taste of fresh SNAKE in a red wine sauce? Or maybe fresh DOG meat, sautéed in a hot pot? The turtle is always fresh, swimming barely alive just near the table.

And don't worry too much about proper table manners. The man at the table next to me at dinner tonight apparently had some fat stuck in his teeth, so he did what came naturally – he turned and spat it out, right on the ground.

Bon appetit!

Levitating - at 280MPH!!!

Shanghai: July 24

First...
Did you know that Kentucky Fried Chicken does more business in China than it does in the USA? There is a KFC on almost very block here, it seems!

Did you know that Pizza Hut is considered an UPSCALE "fine-dining" experience by Chinese? People literally wait in line for an hour to be seated by a maitre'd, and then brag that they've been to Pizza Hut for a night out?




"On Cloud 9"
Just to give you an idea how Shanghai is truly "reaching for the stars" - check this out. This is the Jinmao tower, currently the tallest in Shanghai at 90 stories. Shawn and I had cocktails in the posh bar called "Cloud 9" on the 88th floor.




The architecture is wild! Sometimes fun, sometimes gawdy. (As perhaps in the case of this, the Oriental Pearl Tower in the Pudong New area.



Levitating Bullet Train
But my most awe-inspiring experience in modern Shanghai was simply taking the train to the airport. But this is no simple train - it is the world's only commercial MagLev bullet train! As it pulled into the station, there was no sound - just a "whoosh" of air as the train slid sliently by - it's magnets levitating it just a hair above it's concrete track.

I was pressed back into my seat as the train quietly and gently accelerated - up to over 430kph! That's nearly 280 mph! Can you believe that? That is the fastest I have ever traveled while still on the ground! (Although, technically, we were floating just above the ground.)

Shanghai Surprise!

July 20: Shanghai China

What a different view of China! I knew that Shanghai would be unique, but I was not prepared for how swiftly this city is dashing into the future. The skyline is straight out of a sci-fi movie, and the people clearly have no desire to be like their counterparts in Beijing.

Most impressive to me is the Shanghai approach to traffic control. While Beijing has focused on building overpasses and tunnels to make pedestrians walk around traffic, Shanghai has decided to make the traffic go around pedestrians. There are many elevated roads, and crosswalks are clearly lighted to allow pedestrians to cross busy streets. In fact, at most intersections there are police who halt cars and reprimand people who try to jaywalk. It's a MUCH friendlier city for walking! And a much cleaner city too (in terms of litter), although the smog is still quite bad here.


"Movin' on up..."
Much to my surprise, I am personally living in HIGH LUXURY (quite literally). My Internet friend, Shawn, has arranged a hotel for me that is truly 4-star quality. This two-room business suite would easily cost over $400 per night in New York City, but Shawn has arranged it for less than $60! I have breakfast by room service each morning, a full gym, pool and sauna, and 24-hour Internet service. And did I mention that I am just below the penthouse level, on the 28th floor of a downtown high-rise? A guy could get used to this kind of lifestyle!

Fascinating history:
Shanghai has a remarkable history - and a bit like the USA's "Wild West" days. In Chinese Imperial times, it was a small fishing village. In the mid 1800's the British found it useful for selling opium to the Chinese - and they started the "Opium Wars" to protect that trade. The British took control of half the city, and the French and Americans claimed parts of the city as their own, as well. Surprisingly, each group was able to (forcibly or commercially) stake out their own corner of the city as sovereign turf. They were not subject to Chinese law - only to the laws of their respective consulates! It became a wild city, full of 1930's-style extravagance and decadance. Sadly, Chinese were mostly excluded from this wealth and privilege - and were used mostly just as slave-labor in their sweat shops, etc.

The Japanese subjugation threw most of this into disarray in the 40's, and shortly thereafter the Chinese Communist Party was born - right here in Shanghai. Although they rallied to expel the foreigners, wean addicts off opium, and teach the prostitutes another trade - Communist rule was like throwing a dark wet blanket over the former giddy party capital of Asia. It was only 16 years ago, that the "modernization" of the country was announced - and Shanghai was tapped to take the lead. And jeez... it appears that it has never looked back!

Me: As a "tourist attraction!"
While walking along the river, I was approached by three young Chinese. Usually I ignore people who start talking to me - as they inevitably only want to sell me Chairman Mao "Rolexes" etc. But I could see that these three were holding up a camera, so I thought they wanted me to take their photo together in front of the skyline. But they actually wanted to take a photo of ME. So, flanked by two of them, the other snapped our photo. I tried to chat a bit with them, but could only get that they were students from Yunnan Province - or was it Hunan? Regardless, this hasn't happened to me since I lived in Thailand years ago, so it was quite good for the old ego. (Emphasis on the "old" in that comment.)

Naked Men with Ropes

July 18 - Shennong Stream & Yangtze River

Got your attention with the title, didn't I? "Naked men with ropes?" Well, me too. I was promised that our little tour would get to see the world-famous "trackers" of Shennon Stream today. Muscular men who pulled boats through the treacherous waters, using only ropes and brute force. And the description in the guide is that the men are completely naked. I signed up for that one quite quickly, as you might imagine.

But these guys were fully clothed! What happened to the "naked" bit? Well, they stopped doing that in 1999, I heard - but just never printed up new brochures. {sigh} But it was quite an experience to see these "hunks" (some of them apparently quite old, actually) tugging our little sampans through the rapids, as generations have been doing for thousands of years.

Slow Boat through China

July 16-19 - Yangtze River

I am giddy with excitement to actually be sailing on China's Yangtze River. I can't believe it - a dream come true!

Of course, I had a certain amount of tourist-cheating to go through to get here. I wanted a simple "3-star" type of boat - nothing fancy. But the agent said that "Due to government (something), we cannot book 3-star. You'll have to upgrade to 4-star." Blah, blah, blah. Something about "treating myself to luxury" etc etc. So I was convinced to go with the added luxury. But since I wanted a private room (not wanting to share my cough with a roommate), I then had to pay nearly double the standard rate. But I was content to enjoy some luxury and recuperate in my "4-star" cabin.

Turns out, I was the only non-Chinese on my deck - the 30 other foreigners (on a ship of 200 passengers) had all upgraded to "Deluxe 4-star". Long story short... my room turned out to be the "3-star" accommodation that I had originally expected - but at the "4-star" price.

Fengdu - the 39 Hells

The irony of this so-called "Ghost City" is that it once was a very famous temple for dead folk, situated at the top of a very high peak. But now, a protective wall is being built to protect the temple from being flooded. The town surrounding the temple is gone now - demolished by the people who built it. A "Ghost City" indeed!

But I toured the temple (along with hundreds of others on the ship's tour group), and discover a gruesome and macabre display of the "39 Hells" that a person may encounter if they do not lead a just life. I grew tired of the speech when I realized I was subject to at least 36 of those 39 hells. But the "Hell of the thousand flag-following tourists" was punishment enough for me!

The Damned Yangtze River

July 16, 2006: Chongqing, China


My guidebook calls Chongqing "one of China's most unusual cities" - and I admit that I was impressed. First, over 30 million people live in this area. Yes, 30 million people! That's only slightly less than the entire State of California!

But the layout is stunning, as well. Skyscrapers cling to impossibly-steep ravines that stretch to the river valley far below. Bridges and cable cars intersect the sheer cliff walls, and at at night, the skyline is lit up like a giant disco. It's a cross between Hong Kong, San Francisco and a bit of Vegas, as well.

But I was here to try to see another long-time dream finally come true - to cruise the 3 Gorges on the Yangtze River.

Damned Yangtze
I have traveled some of the World's great rivers: The Nile; The Amazon; The Mississippi - but never the Yangtze - the third-largest river on the planet. I have always been told that it contains some of the greatest views of any river - but those views are disappearing fast.

The Three Gorges Dam is China's biggest engineering project since the Great Wall - and one of the world's most controversial. Now fully constructed, it has begun backing up the water of the Yangtze River for some 400 miles. Once completely full, it will create the largest resevoir in the world - but will also flood an area the size of Singapore - and wash away the homes of up to two million people. The Chinese government has forced populations of entire cities to demolish their own homes and level their town's skyscrapers and temples, to make way for the rising river. In some cases, relics and artifacts dating back thousands of years will be lost forever.


Worse for many, is that the natural scenic beauty of this area will be changed as well. The river will rise almost 500 feet in most places, and dramatically change the views that so many painters and poets have recorded for centuries. By 2009, much of the beauty of the Three Gorges will be under water.

Thus, my mission was to see this wonderful river before that happened.