5-man massage (not a dirty story!)

June 29: Pattaya, Thailand

Yes, it's a story about getting a massage by 5 men, but (somehow) this is NOT a sexy story.

So... we went to a nightclub called "Hollywood" the other night - and had a great time. Dozens of singers and dancers performing on a basketball-court-sized stage, and the $5 admission charge includes two drinks for free. Love it!

But the tricky part comes after drinking all that beer, you need some, um... "relief." So, I head to the only men's toilet to find a battalion of "toilet workers." Men who's only job is to make sure you are given intense attention (at a time you'd probably prefer to be alone).

They will rush to give you hand towels, cool cloths for your forehead, and - the most distracting part - will all compete to give you a back, arm, and neck massage WHILE YOU ARE PEEING!

Or should I say... while you are TRYING to pee? Because, honestly, have you ever tried to pee while 5 men compete to give you a massage??? It takes some getting used to....

Thailand: Mano is here!!!!

June 26, Bangkok

Finally, Mano has arrived!
I have really been looking forward to seeing Mano again, and I'm so happy to say that we are now sharing these memories together. Mano will be here for only two weeks, and it will take him 2-4 days just to get used to the time difference (Bangkok is 14 hours ahead of San Francisco). So we will not do much exploring or adventuring - we will just enjoy having dinners and sight-seeing together.

Mano buys glasses, Drew buys teeth!
This is a good place for shopping, of course. But we tend to be more frugal about the things we buy. For example, Mano bought not ONE pair of prescription glasses, but TWO - for less than $300! And for me? Well, I opted for new teeth! I needed to have a 3-tooth bridge done in the States at a cost of over $2,000! So I waited until this trip, and paid less than half that! Now I really have a reason to smile BIG!

Life's a beach - a little taste of heaven

June 24 - Thailand

Koh Larn, Thailand

I hope you'll excuse me if I get distracted, and don't write for a few days. With the help of (Mano and my friend) "Poj", I have managed to find myself on one of Thailand's many beautiful beaches. White sand, bright clear blue water, cool breeze, and lovely scenerey. No wonder Mano and I keep coming back here time after time. It is so relaxing, and quite easy on the pocket book, as well!

Missing Mano
But of course, it is not the same without Mano. I miss him a great deal. But today, while chillin' on the beach, I pulled out my Ipod and listened to several songs that Mano has recorded. So, it was a little bit as if he was here with me as well!

Give me a few days to enjoy the sun & surf, and I'll update the blog soon. Thank you all for keeping in touch and reading these notes once in awhile - it means a lot!

-Drew

"Pii and Poo!"

June 22

This is admittedly a juvenile story - but maybe it will make you giggle?

Last night I was walking along by a seafood vendor's stand. I noted that one of the crabs had escaped, broken off his rubber bands, and was making a mad dash down the sidewalk (trying to hail a taxi, maybe?") This was an amazing sight to me of course. But, knowing how expensive they are, I thought I should alert the shop owner. Unfortunately, he was not understanding my English ("Hey your crab is running away" is probably not something that he studied in school).

So, I tried to switch to my rudimentary Thai. The word for "sir" ("older brother") is "Pii." And the word for crab is "Poo." So, yes, if you can imagine me standing in the middle of the sidewalk shouting "Pee... Pooh!" maybe you can see why I was giggling?

(I warned you that it was childish story!)

Bangkok: The real name

June 22

What's in a name?
Many Thai people do not even know the name "Bangkok." Most locals only know the city by it's local name "Krung Thep." But did you know that is only a nickname? The real FULL name of this city is:

"Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit"

which translates, roughly, to:

"The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn."

Whew! It is no wonder most Thais just stick with "Krung Thep" (City of Angels). In case you are wondering, "Bangkok" ("Plum Village") was a small village just across the river from the original Krung Thep.

Note: I just copied and pasted from Google - NO WAY did I type all of that!

Thailand - Back in BKK!

June 21

I'm back in Thailand!

This is truly one of my favorite countries in the world. In fact, I have spent more time here than any other country than the US.





THAILAND WAS "HOME" LONG AGO
Bangkok may not seem a very inviting city to many. It is terribly congested, polluted and overloaded with traffic. But this was my home for almsot two years (1989 & 1990), when I lived and worked at radio and TV stations in Bangkok. I got to know this city fairly well (although it has changed much since then), and I have learned how to look beyond the difficulties.


So, luckily I am able to ride the subway with ease, order food, and make small conversation with just about anyone. But even without that experience, any visitor would find that English is widely-spoken, and bi-lingual signs are everywhere. Once you scratch the surface, anyone would love a visit to Bangkok, as well.

Persian Gulf: Doha, Qatar

Tuesday, June 20

TROUBLE LEAVING RUSSIA!
As I almost predicted, the airport transfer from my Moscow hotel to the airport NEVER SHOWED UP! This, despite the fact that I had pre-arranged and paid ahead of time! I had to scramble to arrange an alternate - and then pay outrageous prices to get me there in time.

Now, that I am out of Russia, allow me a moment to gripe about one obvious problem - the total disregard for customer service. My experience with service workers in Russia was - without a doubt - the WORST I have ever seen in all of my travels. Hotel workers, restaurant workers, retail workers - just don't seem to give a damn. You can literally stand in front of a clerk or waitress, etc, and they will not even look up. And if you are expecting such things as "please" and "thank you" you can forget about it. Russia is not the right country for that, apparently.

Luckily, the rest of my journey out of Russia went very smoothly.

Persian Gulf:
I flew Qatar Airways for the first time, and was impressed. Very good service and modern equipment (for example, 30 channels of on-demand video in every seat!) and so many meals that I'm sure I gained weight on the flight!

The flight path should have taken us directly over Iraq, but we diverted over Iran instead (was that really more safe?). Then we flew along the coast near Kuwait, and on to Doha, Qatar. I saw some rather interesting sand storms over the desert on the way down.

It is interesting for me to be in the Persian Gulf - although I don't know if I would be up for a full stopover here. This is just a transfer on the way to Thailand.

You know, I'm still confused about how to pronounce the country - the airline staff said "Ka-TAR" but the announcements inside the terminal and on TV all said "Cutter." Take your pick.

Summer Snow & "Do Svidaniya, Russia!"

Monday, June 19

Final day in Russia

Without being too graphic, I'll tell you that my toes are bloody stumps from walking so much! But I have bandaged them up, and taken to wearing my sandals with socks, to ease the pain. I walk with a limp, but it won't stop me from getting out and enjoying one last day in Moscow.





Food notes:
I tried to find a place selling the cabbage rolls, but ended up with something entirely different - GOULASH! It is sort of like beef stew - meat with potatoes, carrots, mushrooms, and a sweet tomato sauce. And of course, I just had to have another bowl of borscht! Goulash and borscht - such a perfect last meal in Russia, don't you agree?



Summer snow
When I stepped out of the Moscow Metro station on the first day, I was shocked to see "snow" falling on Red Square! It has intrigued me ever since.

The delicate "snow flakes" come swirling out of the summer sky, wafting along sidewalks and piling up against doorways in "snow drifts." Children seem to love it. Tourists gawk and try to capture it with their cameras. (Usually unsuccesfully.)

But as you have guessed, it's not summer snow. In Cyrillic, it is spelled sort of like NyX, but in English it is closest to "pukh." Despite the gross-out spelling, it is not actually raining "puke." It is pronounced more like "pook." (Try to whisper it as you say it - almost as if you are trying to get the attention of a baby.)

What is it? Pukh is the fluff released by flowers of the poplar/cottonwood trees that seem to grow on every street in Moscow. It is incredibly delicate, almost like a ball of very fine spider silk. Remarkably, the puffy balls float by the millions across the city. The drift into eyes, noses, and morning cups of coffee. You can have an "afro" of Pukh in no time! It clogs drainage pipes and window screens and anything with an air filter. It is also blamed for allergies, asthma, and even fires. My nose has been draining since my first day.

Why does it happen? Well, Stalin ordered a face-lift for the capital just after WWII, which included campaign to plant thousands of poplar trees. In Soviet times, teams of city workers were sent out each year to trim the buds to prevent the invasion. But since 1990, the city government hasn't allocated any money for poplar pruning, so they've literally gone to seed.

And thus, for about two weeks each summer, a "blizzard" blankets Moscow in Pukh-y "snow." I just happened to be here at the right time this year to see the phenomenon.

Do Svidanya Russia!
Now I say goodbye to Russia. With any luck, that is! I have been told that customs and immigration can be quite difficult when leaving this country. But more importantly, I am keeping my fingers crossed that the pre-arranged airport hotel will pick me up as was arranged. Wish me luck!

Beaten with branches in the bath

Sunday, June 18

Today was spent trying to navigate the streets and subways of Moscow. It is really difficult! For example, the guidebooks are mostly written using the English names of the stops. But inside the stations, they are all written in Cyrillic. So, I am listening for a stop that sounds like"Mayakovka" but the signs look a bit more like "MArKobKa." I got lost a few times (once caused a slight panic when I really couldn't figure it out) but it all worked out, and I am doing much better than I expected.

Nothing else too exciting to share, but I forgot to write about an interesting experience that I had a few days ago, back in Suzdal, Russia.



Getting Beaten at The Banya
A "banya" is a traditional Russian bath house. I was able to venture into one, along with several others on our tour of the countryside. We stripped down and wrapped a bed sheet around us, and got inside a super-heated wood sauna. Hot as hell, but relaxing.

Then, we take turns jumping into a full size wooden vat filled with ice-cold water. BRRRRR!!! My heart felt like it was going to stop. (Though I tried not to scream like a 10-year old girl.)

Next, we pummeled each other with fresh twigs of the birch tree. Very unusual, but oddly enjoyable. I did start to smell like tea leaves after a while, however.

Speaking of tea, this whole ritual is culminated with group enjoyment of piping hot tea from a ceremonial samovar, as well as sweet cakes. Lots of giggles were shared about the group beating in the bath house.

Moscow: Mickey Mouse gets BUSTED!

Saturday June 17


Today I visited THE KREMLIN. Did you know that "kremlin" is not just a building in Moscow? It is actually the word for any "walled city." The entire city of Moscow used to fit neatly inside the walled and moat-surrounded perimeter of the Kremlin. But of course, most Americans think of it as being the epicenter of the "evil" empire of the Soviet Union.


I thought that I would be political, by wearing my Mickey Mouse t-shirt in front of the symbol of the former Soviet Empire. I had packed the T-shirt specifically for this moment. "How rich the irony," I thought to carry this capitalist icon into the very heart of the former communist regime? But all of my pats on my back were premature, when I saw that directly off one corner of Red Square is a McDonald's!!! Yes, a McDonald's in Red Square. What irony is left in the world, I ask?

Note: This was one of the busiest McDonald's in the world when it first opened, with so many Russians eager to get a taste of what "capitalist cuisine" was really like. I am so embarrassed. Why couldn't they open a New Orleans rib pit instead?

Obey the Rules
I was instructed at the hotel that I MUST keep my passport with me at ALL TIMES, so that the authorities may verify that I was visiting legally. However, I was also warned by my Lonely Planet book that I should NEVER give my passport to the police, as they will likely try to keep it and demand a bribe to get it back. What to do?

So I am crossing Red Square when a Moscow police/soldier blew his whistle. He was waving his baton at me, beckoning me to come to him! "Passaporta"...he demanded. I remembered my guidebook warning, and refused handing over my actual passport. Instead, I gave him the PHOTOCOPY that I had made before I left, along with the hotel registration card. "Passaporta" he demanded again. I mumbled "hotel registration" and shrugged my shoulders, trying to hide my sweat. What seemed like an eternity of silence passed. Then, a very deep sigh emerged from the soldier. "Okay, go" he said. Nothing more. That was it. What did I do? I still do not know.

Lenin's dead body
But I know that I also got yelled at during my visit to Lenin's tomb. As you may know, the Russians display the actual preserved corpse of the communist leader in Red Square. He's been dead for 50 years, but they manage to keep him on display by dipping him in wax (and other secret stuff). It's a weird thing to do, but I somehow could not keep from paying the fee to go in. On entrance, I was chastised for wearing my sunglasses on top of my head - not respectful, perhaps? Later, I was told to remove my hands from my pockets. By the way, this web photo is the only picture you will likely ever see, as photos are not allowed.

Don't break the (Faberge) eggs
Can you believe that I also caused an alarm at the Armory Museum inside the Kremlin? What a day I've had! I had leaned a little too far over the rope line to appreciate detail , and an automatic alarm went off. I got yelled at (again). But getting used to it, I just shrugged and said "Stupid Tourist."

There are only a few Faberge eggs in the world (the favorite of the Romanovs) - and today I saw quite a few of them. The thrills continue!

Moscow!

Saturday June 16

Can you imagine? I have just been in Red Square in Moscow, Russia!!!

Literally surrounded on all sides by the symbolism of a seemingly-threatening past - it is quite a moment in my life to actually see these things with my own eyes. The sparkling onion domes of St Basil's Church - the very icon of exotic Russia - seems to almost light up the sky around it. Legend has it that, once constructed, Ivan the Terrible had the architect's eyes poked out - so that he could never design anything as beautiful as this!

Did you know that the name "Red Square" has nothing to do with red-flag waving Communists? The name came from the translation of the old title, meaning "beautiful" "important" or "red."

Give my money back, old woman!
I read in my guidebook that when you enter Red Square through Ressurection gate, it is good luck to throw money to the homeless. So, I dug in my pocket and gave all my coins to the first poor-looking person I saw. A few steps later, however, I noticed a large gathering of people all tossing coins in a ringed area, where other homeless were later collecting them. Apparently, I had engaged in a premature donation. I briefly considered snatching my coins back and doing it correctly, but felt that my act HAD resulted in good luck - for the old woman, anyway.


The Moscow subway is one of the deepest in the world (St Petersburg's is the deepest actually) - over 300 feet deep. And if you can see this picture - Moscow's must be THE MOST GRAND! This hall filled with marble arches and statues is not a museum - it is a subway station. Stalin wanted to make the laborers feel as if they were "entering the palace of a friend" each day as they came to work. Photography is STRICTLY forbidden, so I only took 3 or 4 pictures. Judging from what I see on the Internet, so have plenty of other people.

Getting around is VERY difficult. The city is crowded and chaotic. I am traveling solo again - no group - and doing okay. But I must admit that I am intimidated. Partly due to the lack of understanding of the language, but also due to what I feel is a strong authoritarian presence. I honestly feel I am being watched everywhere I go by police, soldiers, security - and babushkas too!

Theft is rampant - I have met two people who have had things stolen while they were making their way through the crowds. One lost their wallet and all credit cards, and another had their phone stolen - can you imagine?

Honestly, I am not as comfortable here in Moscow as I was in St Petersburg. Regardless, I am still thrilled to see the sights that I have. But it doesn't seem to to be the kind of place where one can easily relax.

Quick food notes:
For breakfast I had mashed potatoes, blini (non-sweet pancakes), and deep-fried cottage cheese. Yup. For dinner, I went to the Gum department store's 3rd floor balcony and enjoyed stir-fried potatoes, mushrooms and sauerkraut.

The weather continues to be wet and cool, and I'm having a few small health issues keeping me down a bit (just a sore throat, my little tremor is kicking up again, etc). Nothing major, just something that a good night sleep will probably fix - so that's what I'm off to do.

Tomorrow - the Kremlin!

Vladimir & Suzdal Russia (The "Bad American Story")

Thursday, June 15

Vladimir & Suzdal, Russia
I believe these towns are about 130 miles NE of Moscow and are on the former Trans-Siberian railway.

Vladimir was a major center back in the 12th century - while Moscow was still a small village. Even more impressive is Suzdal, which dates back even further. I look forward to showing you pictures when I return (this one is just from the 'net of course).

I will skip the history lesson (Just go to Google or Yahoo if you really wanna know!), but I'll tell you the two stories I will remember most.

Bowling for Vladimir
I was visiting these towns on a package tour, so I met up again with my group for dinner at the hotel. Pickled fish (which I politely declined), with a creamy potato-dill salad. And for dessert, an excellent ice cream with a giant orange and spice-flavored beer. (My food pairing needed a little work, don't you agree?)

The hotel also doubled as the biggest nightclub in town - and included a 3-lane disco-lighted bowling alley! The Aussies and Kiwis invited me to join them for a game, so why not? The moment made me absolutely want to giggle. Of all the dreams and visions I ever had of what my trip to Russia would be like - all the possibilities of what I might experience - bowling and drinking beer with a bunch of Australians was NOT among them.

It was actually quite fun, and it turned out to be another late night. (I've gotta stop doing this!)

"The Bad American"
While I was at the bar buying rounds, I was approached by a young Russian guy. His name was "Vladimir" (yes, just like the name of the town we were in), and he was curious that I spoke English, and asked where I was from. This is the time I usually consider saying "Canada," as I know what most of the world thinks of the United States these days. But no, I was honest. "Oh, sorry for you. Americans are bad," he said, apparently not thinking the statement was the least bit rude. "Why must your president cause so much trouble?" Sadly, I had no answer for him. But Vlad was sympathetic to hear that our government was actually spying on our own citizen's phone calls right now, and imprisoning non-nationals without trial or sentence. (Perhaps this sounded very "KGB-esque" to him?) I could sense that Vlad was relieved to hear that many of us Americans are quite unhappy about our government, as well.

I won't bore you with more of my politics, but it all ended well. We spoke for some time, about much more pleasant subjects. As it turns out, Vlad is a surgeon (at 28!), lives in Moscow and was here to teach a conference on tele-medicine. As such, we spoke about how my partner works in the OR, etc.

Despite the shocking introduction, this "bad American" really enjoyed that conversation.

Train through Russian Countryside

Wednesday, June 14

I booked a ticket for a 12-hour overnight train journey to a couple of small Russian towns. The ticket was for a complete tour package, including a "1st class" train cabin.

Most of you probably agree that "1st class" can be a very subjective term depending on experiences, right? Well, this was no exception. Upon boarding, I immediately knew this trip would be memorable. The 4-person cabin had no air conditioning or even a window that opened more than a few inches, and it was a very hot and humid evening. The vinyl couches were already quite sticky.

By comparison, however, the next coach was much worse. There were no cabins, but wide open with rows of open bunk beds from beginning to end. Crammed with people, and (sorry to say) absolutely reeking of body odor and the wafting cigarette smoke. So I was quite pleased that I had my "1st class" seat after all.

And this was apparently going to be "tourist class" - as there were only foreigners sharing my cabin - 3 Australians and New Zealanders. And it turned out they were "professional party-ers," coming on board with their bags full of beers and snacks, and getting the party started immediately.

At least 6 other Aussies or Kiwis joined the party through the night. What could I do? I could not lie down, as my bed was actually the couch they were sitting on. I tried to be polite and hoped they would wear down soon. They did not. The "provodnista" (cabin attendent) came by to chastise our group, and the cabin next door banged on the walls to remind us that it was (after all) 3:30 in the morning. By luck/fate/karma it was clear I would not be sleeping on this trip. But about an hour later, I had fallen asleep sitting up, and one of the party-goers from another cabin invited me to switch rooms with him. I hated leaving my bags unattended, but I just HAD to sleep. (I wish I had considered the option earlier, actually!)

PS: Note to Rennie and Mano - Thanks for helping to talk me OUT of doing the entire 7-day Trans-Siberian rail journey!

"The Bus Incident" and Boiled Cabbage Rolls

Tuesday, June 13

This is my last day in St. Petersburg, and it happens to be a day that clearly reminds me of why I LOVE traveling so much. Every single thing you do in an unknown country is unknown. There is no such thing as "boring" or "mundane." Finding your way, taking a bus, ordering food, even crossing the street, can be an adventure. For example:

The Bus Incident
I felt that I was actually getting the hang of getting around by bus. Keep in mind that when I say "bus" I really mean "beat up old mini-van." Think of a small van that has squashed in several rows of oddly-facing seats, where they routinely cram 15 or more people inside. I'd finally been able to figure out how to flag down the driver, and yell when I'd like for him to stop. But today was the first time that I'd tried to get inside when it was fully packed. I stopped while stepping into the back, to reach over the front seat to pay the driver my 17 roubles. But the people behind me started yelling at me. (Russian sounds much harsher than it is, I believe.) They pointed for me to take my seat, so others could load on as well. Soon, I watched as the others passed their money from person to person, and the driver managed to dodge traffic, take money and make change, all at the same time. Impressive. By the end of the day, I was a pro at it too, even being the guy who would take money from others and hand it to the driver. (Note: That would never work in the States, as I suspect only half of the money would ever make it to the driver!)

The 6ahk
I stopped at the 6ahk to go use the 6ahkomat and get more rubles dispensed. You figured it out, right?

Cabbage Rolls - Yum!
Another adventure was stopping at the "Pectopah" and trying to order food using only a phrasebook. Of course I was able to order borsch (though it came with meatballs this time - good!). And then I ordered something like "she mee-nee" or something like that. That was my way of putting two words together for "cabbage" and "dumplings." Somehow, she understood, and I soon received some excellent cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice. Yum, yum yum! It was almost as good as my Grandmother used to make! I guess my Slavic heritage had been screaming out for some good ol' "soul food!"

"Chocolate men" and other observations

Tuesday, June 13

I'm about to leave St Petersburg, so I wanted to share some quick observations (nothing too boring, I hope!)

People of Color:
Everyone here seems to look like me - meaning white. I have seen only ONE Asian who appeared to live here. I have also see only two black people, and - get this - they were both working at the entrance of the "Chocolate Museum." That is not a joke (nor do I think it to be funny.) Just consider it social commentary...

Forced Military Service
All boys here are forced to join the military for two years, as soon as they turn 18. Which means that virtually every Russian man is in his prime physical condition at age 20. Looking around, it shows. Not a single case of childhood obesity. Now, take a look around the fat kids of your city (for my American friends). Another social commentary...

Speaking of soldiers... and communism
My soldier friend, Nikolay, was in the Soviet army when, he says, "I went to sleep one night in Leningrad, and woke up the next morning in St. Petersburg." But the fall of communism has not made everyone happy. I think I'll just stop right there. It is not wise to go too far with social commentary while still in the Soviet U.... Oooops, I mean Russia!

The 900-day Seige
Walking around this town, you can still see damage from the shelling by the Germans during a nearly 3-year seige in 1941-1944. During the 900-day blockade, citizens were literally starved to death or died of diseases. They resorted to whatever they could to stay alive - eating leather belts, stray dogs - even human corpses. I think about stuff like that while I'm eating in the front window of a restaurant, and I see some 70 year old woman walk by and look at me a little too long. Was she mad at me for not knowing their suffering back then? Perhaps I should not think so much...

No old age:
The average life expectancy for women here is 72, but most men die by age 60!

More later...

My Russian Soldier Story: Yes, this is "The sexy stuff"

Monday, June 12

Okay, some of you have written and asked why I am not "dishing the dirt" on the nightlife, etc. Well, this blog is "Rated G" so that all can enjoy. But for those of you with a curiosity for such things (like ME!) this post is for you.

In summary... apparently Russian nightlife is not for the weak-hearted! It runs all night (til 6am) and gay, or straight - it is apparently quite wild.

I met up with Nikolay downtown last night - a Lt. in the Russian Army. He offered to show me around the nightspots in St. Petersburg. From what I can recall, we had a great time. ;-)

Strippers are in virtually EVERY club - gay or straight. They dance on bars, on your table, or your lap if you prefer. Live sex shows seems to be as well attended as the opera or ballet.

Tunnel: straight, gay-friendly club: Literally underground, in a bomb shelter! Very strict entry and dress code. Pat-down by security to enter. "Interesting live show." Have you ever wondered what would happen if Tarzan and the Catwoman ever hooked up? I can now tell you for certain, as I saw it there onstage.

Central Station: (www.centralstation.ru) Gay, straight-friendly. 4 floors (yes 4!) of whatever you have in mind. Restaurant, conversation bars, two discos, a pub playing porno, and dark rooms for... mingling. A unique men-only bathroom with a window to look at the club below as you pee. (!) One highlight of their show was that I have now seen virtually every act of the Kama Sutra performed before my very eyes. (Mano, remind me to describe this to you in more detail later, okay?)

Grishniki ("Sinners"): (http://www.greshniki.ru/) 3 levels of gay-only dance & show fun. Dark, with a gothic "dungeon" sort of motif. The second floor features a two-man all-glass circular shower stall, where the hot and sweaty strippers will lather up in the suds for your viewing pleasure. Ahhh... that's what I call "good clean fun!"

St. Petersburg Russia Highlights

Monday, June 12

Now, it is clear to me where I am. This hotel is nestled in a Soviet-era worker's housing complex on the other side of the river from the city center. The communist design of this area explains why all of the buildings appear to be the same - sprawling, dark and drab. But the heart of St. Petersburg - the city center - is quite another story!





"Another Venice"
How many cities have you seen claim to be the "Venice of the east, west, south, whatever?" Many of them make you chuckle at the comparison... but there are many places in St. Petersburg that in my opinion, REALLY DO look like Venice.


St Petersburg was always designed (by Peter the Great, of course) to emulate European capitals. ("Czar" is a variation of Caesar, after all.) There are many canals and rivers, and the overwhelming architecural influence appears to be sort of a flambouyant baroque style.

Highlights of my day include:

Winter Palace: 5 or more giant buildings that were home to Catherine the Great and other Russian royals - but also where the Bolsheviks stormed in 1917 putting an end to Czarist Russia, and welcoming Lenin to lead the country into Communism.

The Hermitage: This world-class museum is actually one and the same with the Winter Palace, and contains some of the world's greatest art treasures. Truly spectacular, and I cannot wait to share photos with you. But what is remarkable, is that you are so close to all of the priceless works. There is nothing except common sense to stop you from touching the master works, such as those by Rembrandt, da Vinci, Van Gogh and others. No velvet ropes, no glass shields, etc. Sadly, some people do not have that common sense, and I witnessed them actually touching the frames and even the canvas in one case. There was quite a distressed shout from the volunteer babushka who was watching the room.



Kazaan Cathedral - Very European. Styled a bit like St. Peter's Basilica at the Vatican in Rome, it features rows of giant columns flanking either side of the giant dome. Banned during communism, it actually operated as a Museum of Atheism for about 60 years.

Dom Knigi - Art-Nouveau style - similar to the decorations found at the Empire State Building in NYC. Was home to the Singer Sewing Machine company!

Church of Our Savior On Spilled Blood - (seen in first photo above) Now this is the expected Russian style! A mountain of blindingly bright, colorful and bejeweled domes, topped by glistening gold crosses. I must have taken 20 pictures of this building alone! This is where Czar Alexander II was assassinated, hence the dramatic name.

There are many more, but I won't bore you with details.

More soon - thanks for keeping in touch. I really appreciate hearing from you. :-)
Drew

Lost in Translation: The Troubles with Travel

St. Petersberg, Russia
Saturday, June 10 2pm

Yeah! I finally got some sleep! Although I'm still not in synch with local time, at least I am not so grouchy!

But in an attempt to "keep it real," I thought I'd share some of the "challenges" that I have encountered so far.

The language barrier:


Virtually no one I have met so far has spoken any English, and of course, all of the streets signs, commercial signs, etc, are all in written in Russian. Since that is a Cyrillic language, it is extremely difficult - intimidating in fact - for me to try to decipher.

"Where am I?"
Apparently, the hotel in which I am staying is not on any available map. I have discovered that it is nowhere near the city center, nor is it near any Metro center. Taxis are not available directly from the hotel, and one must take the bus if you'd like to go anywhere independently. At this point, I am not confident enough yet to feel comfortable in taking a bus - without knowing how to come back. It's not that I don't trust a taxi driver to know how to take me back without over-charging, but... well, actually I DON'T trust them to do that. Maybe after a bit more studying.

The stomach bug:
I was warned that the water in St. Petersburg has very high levels of giardia and other bacteria, and thus it is quite unsafe to drink. So I have attempted to be careful to drink only bottled water. Yet, somehow, the ol' stomach bug has managed to grab hold of me. I expected it, and have the meds to counter the effects, but it'll take a day or two to work, as many of you undoubtedly know from your own travels. So, until then, I need to stay near the um... facilities.

My dirty laundry:
I have not washed my clothes since leaving San Francisco one week ago. Thus, some of my favorite outfits are about to grow legs and walk away! I was planning to use a laundry service in London, but at $6 per shirt, I thought it was too costly. However, here they would charge $10 per shirt (using an outside service, since they don't even offer it). So today was hand-washing day in my room.

The Hallway Police:
My hand-washing apparently alerted the "dezhurnaya" - a sort of babushka hall monitor. I am not really sure of what role they perform, but there is one on every floor. They take your room key when you leave, and the apparently scowl at you if you are up too late or have guests, from what I am told. Mine was not pleased that I was washing clothes in my room, but was not helpful when I asked her how else I could take care of it. She also could not care less that the light bulb was burnt out in my bathroom. (It still is.)

But these are just "challenges" to overcome. For example, I learn what certain words LOOK like in Cyrillic. The word for restaurant looks a little bit like "Pectopah." And when given a Russian menu, I recognized something that looks a bit like "6opw" which is borscht - a soup of beets, carrots and kidney beans, with a dollop of sour cream. Quite yummy, actually!


I'm going to chill out today, and hopefully be up and able for an exploration of the city center tomorrow. Now, if I just knew WHERE the city center was, I'd be all set!

The "Midnight Sun" - turn off the lights!

St. Petersberg, Russia
Saturday June 10 - 3am

Bright and SUNNY Northern Russia

I'm dying to sleep, but....arrrgggggh! The manager of the hotel has obviously conspired with nature herself - the Earth and the Sun - to make certain that I get no sleep! Either that, or my jet-lagged brain is just starting to hallucinate a bit. No... in fact, I'm fairly certain of the conspiracy....

Entering my third day with no sleep, I laid in bed trying to avoid the sun's rays. Despite being 3 o'clock in the morning, the sun still shined defiantly through the room's cheap curtains. Yes, the sun. At 3 in the morning???

Of course! The "White Nights" of St. Petersburg! Located so far north (around 60° N lattitude) , that during the Summer Solstice the sun never sets. People will picnic at the beach, go boating etc, literally all night long. This time of year, it never gets dark here. By contrast, during Winter, they rarely see the sun's warm rays. All things considered, I'm quite happy to be visiting during the Summer!

Now, I'll just tuck my head under my pillow, and fight the conspirators by actually falling asleep.

Any minute now...

Yep... any second now...

London to Scandinavia to RUSSIA!

Friday, June 9

Now sporting eye bags that are large enough to carry groceries, I somehow managed to get my racoon-looking self out to the street at 4am. A $30 taxi ride took me the few miles to Paddington Station for the ($35) Express train to Heathrow, just in time to get through airport security. (Note: being cattle-prodded seems somehow more civilized when being done by those with British accents) And then on to my flight into Scandinavia.

Stockholm was just a transfer point, but from the air it is just as green and beautiful as I recall from my trip there in 1988. During that visit, we were invited to the hall where they hand out the Nobel Peace Prize - but on our visit they only handed out ham sandwiches.

Then on to St. Petersburg, Russia.

I really cannot believe I am here...RUSSIA!!!!

Technically I am not a tourist, but a guest. (As are all visitors to Russia.) In order to obtain my Russian visa (some months in advance) I was to first secure an "invitation" from someone within the country. Of course if you book a hotel room, then that hotel is more than happy to "invite" you to come visit. I then took that letter of invitation to have it authorized at the Russian Embassy - and had my background checked - before I was given the actual visa. Once here in the country and at the hotel, my passport was taken to the local police to be registered. I feel important to be such an honored guest!

My inititial observations are pretty much what I expected, so far: sprawling, drab and rather hectic. I did just enjoy my first-ever trip in a Russian-made Volga auto. Once we got it started (after several attempts) the trick was to keep it running during traffic stops, etc.

But bear in mind that these sarcastic first impressions are from a guy who has not slept in two days. So, I will leave this entry here... and wake up tomorrow with (hopefully literally) fresh eyes!

Regardless, I truly am thrilled to be in Russia!

Heaven to Drew: "Sorry, you're not invited."

Thursday, June 8

My last night in London. I met up with my old pal, Trav, for a quick night on the town. Trav is a Brit who works for Microsoft, whom I met back in San Francisco. We enjoyed a quick chat about how I believe his career choice is tantamount to selling his soul to the devil, and he suggested that if that is so, then he is in quite-popular company. Actually, I confided in him that I am a closet fan of Microsoft, and I am as excited as he is about the upcoming release of Windows Vista and Office 2007. We fell into a silent agreement that Google may actually be the real anti-Christ in disguise.

Friendly jousting complete, he took me out for a couple of pints. We stopped at a club called "G-A-Y." Can you guess what kind of bar it was? LOL. Wacky ol' London. Trav is a sweetheart. But no matter how many beers I bought (at $7 each!) he still wouldn't agree to get me software for free.

It is 1am. Jet lag has screwed me up completely. My flight to Stockholm leaves in just a few hours, so I thought I'd kill time by blogging. (Thanks again for reading.)

With a bit of time and the sandman seemingly on strike, I decided it was time to go to Heaven. Once there, I could see St Peter standing guard over the entry. (Actually, I am not certain of the bouncer's actual name). "Sorry sir, " he said. "Heaven is closed for a private party tonight, and no one else may enter." {Sigh} Flashback to all of those protesters telling me - "You'll never get into Heaven!" Hmmm... how did they know?

FYI: In case you did not know, "Heaven" is probably the most-popular gay nightclub in all of Europe (web site). It is sort of a ritual that all tourists will venture here at one time or another. But in my 4 visits to London, I've only been inside once! Well, no big loss. I've been thrown out of better places than Heaven, after all.

Looking at old things

Thursday, June 8

Today was "Museum Day" - including the British Museum and the National Gallery. If you are into maximizing your art experiences with a minimum amount of walking, the National gallery is hard to beat! In contrast to the sprawling Louvre in Paris, London's Gallery is fairly small in size, but packed with work from the masters. For example, within steps of each other are works by: Michelangelo, da Vinci, Van Gogh (the actual "Sunflowers"), Botticelli, Raphael, Cezanne, Monet, Suerat, Gauguin, Rubens, Caravaggio, and, oh yeah, an entire room full of Rembrandt! And with free admission, you can't beat the price!

Perfect for me: culture on a budget.

The London Eyesore, etc

Wednesday, June 7

I was up at the crack of Noon today. It may not sound like much, but that is 6am in Chicago, or 4am in San Francisco. Jet lag is definitely taking it's toll.

So how can you spot an American on the streets of London? Easy. We are the ones who consistently look the wrong way when about to cross a busy street - and then YELL at the cars that nearly run us over. Luckily, Londoners have grown tired of scraping tourists off their windscreens, and painted words directly on street crossing, advising us to "Look left" or Look Right." Still, it's a hard habit to break.

Such a typical tourist I was today. A cruise down the River Thames, stroll around the London Tower, Westminster Bridge, etc. I stopped by Buckingham Palace to see if the Queen fancied a spot of tea (you, know... one old queen to another), but apparently she was not receiving visitors on this particular day.

I did, however, enjoy a pint of ale at the nearly 500-year old Anchor Tavern, which was reputed to be a drinking spot for Shakespeare and his actors - as his original Globe Theater was located right next door.

The "London Eye" (or "Eyesore" as some locals refer to it) is new since my last visit, so I thought I'd check it out. I mean, where else can you ride a 400-ft tall ferris wheel with views of such importance? But the ticket price - almost $60 US was a little too thrilling for my taste. (FYI: I do happen to have a link to a video of 5 or 6 very hunky male models who went on the Eye recently - and then stripped down to their birthday suits - if anyone is seeing such a shameless thing.) Now, if I knew that naked hunks were guaranteed on every ride, then maybe it would be worth the $60!!!

Mano: Singing for San Francisco Mayor

Well, I just heard from back home that my sweetheart, Mano, will be singing for the Mayor of San Francisco this week! Mano, along with the 9 other members of the Gay Asian/Pacific Alliance Men's Chorus will be performing in San Francisco's City Hall by special invitation. How cool is that? I am so proud! But also a bit sad that I will not be there to share in this special event. :-( Well, at least my heart is there....

FIRE!

Wednesday, June 7, 4:12am

Just as I lying down to finally sleep, I could hear the faint sound of a fire alarm ringing in the distance. With no air conditioning, the window was open enough to make out that the alarm was coming from the hotel's lower floors. But then, another alarm rang on a higher floor, then another still even closer to my floor. Bewildered, I gathered my clothes and valuables, and stuck my head out my door for a peak. One or two others were doing the same, and no one seemed quite sure if it was for real, or if we could simply ignore it. Just then, the fire alarm in my own room sounded a piercing shriek - making it clear that I was not supposed to simply sit there and wait. The rest of the guests all seemed to come to the same conclusion, and took off running down the hallway. Yep, the entire hotel was being evacuated.

Floor by floor, we all made our way down to the street with relative calm (except for the guy who pushed several of us out of the way as he literally ran down the stairs). I made my way to the front entrance, where I saw a half-dozen of London's Bravest (the Fire Brigade) rushing into the building. We, of course, were told to wait across the street. Not too many minutes later, however, the "all clear" was given for us to return.

It seems that a careless smoker had managed to set something ablaze in his room, yet had been able to put out the fire himself. The resulting smoke was responsible for setting off the alarms that sent hundreds of poorly-dressed tourists scrambling for the exits.

Not serious, but fun to watch... and fun to write about!

Jolly ole' London

Tuesday, June 6

"Mind the gap!" It's time to learn the "other" English language once again, as I'm back in London for the first time in many years. It didn't take long to be impressed. At Heathrow airport, I asked a Londoner how late the Tube operated, as I was trying to get to the hotel late at night. Once she heard I was going to the SoHo area, she said "Just ride with me, my driver is waiting right outside." So off we went, my new friend Jane and I, in our little limo. Jane is an art consultant, and a lovely woman for not laughing at my naivete. "What's the difference between a quid, a pound and a pence?" (= A buck, a dollar and a penny.) And she didn't scoff when I looked out my window and gasped at the sight of Harrods. Fantastic!

I had a quick walk about to check out the nightlife, and it is apparently kicking. Even at 3am the streets of SoHo were loud and festive. The mega nightclub Heaven was closed (imagine that, ME - locked out of Heaven!), so I went to 79CXR. Boy, with a $6 cover and $7 drinks, I would never run the risk of becoming an alcoholic here.

More later, my Internet time is running out...

"Your train is a BUS"

Monday, June 5

"I'm sorry sir, but today your train is a bus."

That's what the station agent told me as I arrived at the train station this morning. Apparently, the train had run into some problems, and would be replaced by bus service back to Chicago. So about 40 of us were packed into a "sardine coach" for the 4 hour trip. Not as nice as train travel, but it beats walking!

Sitting in the station, while waiting for the train (um, I mean BUS), I struck up a conversation with a 72-year old man. He had been a farmer in Central Illinois all of his life, and was headed upstate to see his grandkids graduation. He told me that I look young for my age, "probably because I wasn't married." I responded "Not married, but I've had a Domestic Partner for the past 15 years and HE is the reason that I stay young." I could just see the machinery working inside the old farmer's brain. After a brief pause, he said "Well, I think that's nice. We all need a way to be with the one we love - male or female." And then without skipping a beat, he went on to talk about his recently-deceased wife of 21 years.

Well, how about that. Despite the fact that Illinois lawmakers want to make marriage illegal for people like me and Mano, it seems that the residents of the state have a better sense of fairness. You go, Illinois - and good luck to you as you fight the 'phobes!

Now, a brief nap. Then, off to London!

Springfield (Not the Simpsons) Illinois

Sunday June 4

Stepping off the train in Springfield Illinois, it's easy to feel like I'm stepping back in time - or at least to a parallel universe. There are almost no cars on the street, and every business is closed. I halfway expected to hear the Twilight Zone music playing in the background. In actuality, it is downtown on a Sunday, a time when only tourists head into this area.

Say "Springfield" and what comes to mind? For most, it will be The Simpsons. (Trivia note: I am told that the producers of that show picked the city name Springfield, because it is the most common town name in the USA.) But this town should be better known as MY BIRTHPLACE. Okay, and also where that other famous guy grew up: Abraham Lincoln.

If you are into Lincoln-ology, then this is a great spot for a day or two. You can see Lincoln's log cabin home, his later homes, his law office, where he became President of the US, and where his body now lies. Actually impressive, is the Lincoln Presidential Library & Museum. I'm not one to get mushy about Presidential Libraries, but this one is quite unusual. It is more like a Disneyland attraction - with "rides" and special effects such as 3D, holographic projections, animations and more. Definitely worth a visit if you are a Lincoln buff!

I also took a side-trip to the equally-impressive Illinois State Capitol building. The last time I was in this impressive marble-laden rotunda was when I was a naive young news reporter. My assignment was to interview 3 women who had chained themselves to the lobby railings to protest lack of equal rights for women in those days. I gathered my courage (and my microphone and cassette recorder) and nervously approached the protesters. In my 15-yr old squeaky voice, I mustered a polite: "Good morning ladies." To which they instantly hurled back "We are NOT ladies! We are WOMYN!" Yikes... some memories are hard to erase.

I do have worse memories of this city, however. Growing up here as a fairly "out" gay teen/young man in the 70's was not easy. I was gay-bashed and left for dead just 2 blocks from where I am typing this blog tonight. Only three blocks away is the parking garage where a young aquaintance jumped to his death after telling me and others he "didn't want to be a fag." But things are changing here too, now. A former Mayor (and friend of our family) announced Springfield as a "hate-free zone" and now the Governor is instituting Domestic Partner benefits. But the legislature of Illinois is now proposing a constitutional amendment to forever make that - and equal marriage rights ILLEGAL. The local LGBT groups are trying to fight.

Quick side note: It is easy for a gay guy (like me) to move to a big gay-friendly city (like San Francisco), but my hat is off to the truly courageous gays and lesbians who have chosen to STAY in Springfield, and demand their equal right to live here. If every queer LEAVES their hometown, when will small towns ever SEE what gay people are really like? These people who stay - and are OUT - and the really BRAVE ones. Thank you! (Please contact Buzz Carmichael at Springfield's only gay newspaper, www.prarieflame.biz to voice your support, if you'd like.)

Of course, the main reason for this sidetrip was to see family, my 94-year old grandmother in particular. I hope to post pictures of her smiling face up here once I get images downloaded from my camera. You see, I forgot to bring my USB cable. As Homer Simpson would say... "D'OH!"

Train through Illinois

Jeez! Imagine the sight:
Me, running full steam with backpack and overloaded day bag slung over my shoulders, making a mad dash through downtown Chicago. A delay on the subway had turned my "45 minute" commute into an hour and a half - and I had literally just minutes remaining before the train would leave the station. Huffing and puffing, I somehow managed to stumble rush into the coach, just as the train was sounding the horn and the conductor was yelling "All Aboard!!!" The train pulled out truly just seconds after I sat down.

I love travel by train. It just seems so "civil" compared to flying or driving. Although the Chicago to St. Louis trek is not the most scenic in the United States, it still has it's moments. First, history buffs may enjoy the fact that the train follows the once-popular "Route 66" for almost all of the journey into Springfield. Auto enthusiasts may enjoy catching the sight of an antique roadster or motorcycles making their pilgrimage down this historic highway.

But mostly, the view is of never-ending farmland, punctuated by the occasional glimpse of wildlife (such as the badger - or was it a beaver that I saw scamper out of the woodlands?); or kids inner-tubing down the Sangamon River; or the very "Huckleberry Finn" scene of a boy in overalls fishing from a log in the river.

To me, these are the simple rewards of traveling by train.

I hope this is just the first of many train travels I enjoy during this journey.

USA - Chicago, Illinois

Saturday, June 3

Wow! What a gorgeous day, here in "Midwest USA." (Actually, if you look on a map, Illinois is much closer to the East Coast than the West, so I never quite understood that "Midwest" name. But I digress.)

Traveling 2,500 miles by air across the USA, I have returned to my "roots" in Illinois. Today was spent exploring Chicago - and what a great day it was! The sun was shining, and even the graffiti looked as if was brand new. Seriously though, this city has really been cleaning up it's act. I took the subway in from the airport area, and just set out to hike around much of the area. Walking along the Chicago River around Wacker and Michigan always inspires me - the architecture of Chicago must be among the best of any US city.

The highlight of my walking tour HAD to be seeing the brand new Millennium Park. The City has apparently embarked on a plan to rip up paved areas and create new "green space" around the city. This park features stunning architecture, including pieces by Frank Ghery (Guggenheim in Bilbao Spain) and Anish Kapoor (the 9/11 Memorial in NYC).


But my guilty pleasure was the twin towering glass water fountains, with embedded video displays. I had to kick of my shoes and splash around with the other 6 year olds, enjoying the video and water show.

These pics are from www.gallagher.com

I walked a couple of miles more to take in the skyline views from Navy Pier, sunbathed a bit on the beach and marveled at how "ocean-like" Lake Michigan can be.

Then, on to the "Boystown" for a dose of Chicago gay life. I spent a lot of time here as a kid growing up, so it's great to see some of the old favorites still running strong. I had a blast at SideTrack, enjoying the vocal performances during the semi-finals of their "Windy City Gay Idol" contest - complete with smart-ass judges offering their critiques. As good as the singers were, I can't help but think of how well my own sweetheart would do up on that stage. I'm serious!

I also have to mention how nice it was to meet one of the local DJ's here, "DJ Vernimal." Vernon is such a sweetheart. A self-described "Renaissance Man," he reminds me of me - about 20 years ago. He's into spinning and mixing music, web design, database work, programming, and - by the time you read this - probably paleobotany and genetic engineering as well! LOL He has a refreshing excitement and enthusiasm for life, and it lifted my spirits just to listen to him talk about his plans for the future. If anyone can make those dreams happen - he can. Thanks Vernon!

Why take another trip?

Like most people, I've had addictions in my life.. some "socially acceptable" and some not. ;-)

But of all of these addictions, TRAVEL has always given me the most reward. No matter what my mood, journeys outside the comfort of my home country have always lifted my spirits and expanded my mind. (With absolutely no chemical additives!) I've been fortunate enough to step foot on very continent on Earth, and learned much about life from trips to Antarctica to the Amazon, Egypt to the Andes and more. I have met wonderful people, and they are forever part of who I am now (for better or worse!) .

But the more you travel, the more you realize how little you really know. It only leaves you wanting more. Yes, travel is a powerful addiction, indeed.

But it has been many years since my partner and I last traveled completely around the world in one journey (1995, to be exact). During that trip, Mano and I strapped on our backpacks and traveled through Europe and Asia with no plans, and very little cash. It was the thrill of a lifetime.

But we were younger then, and I was much less cranky. At 44, I really need to see if a 'mega-journey' still has the allure that it once did. I need to know if I can still DO IT... can I even survive without hot showers, air conditioning, and Tivo reruns of Judge Judy and CSI? Are my adventure days behind me?

This is my 45th birthday present to myself. Time to indulge my addiction. Time for my fix!