Phnom Penh, Cambodia

July 29, 2006

After a rather lengthy trek through Southern China, and a short flight across Vietnam, I arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia late last night.

Although this is a capital city of over one million people, the streets were virtually deserted. But a day time stroll revealed an emerging metropolis that is bristling with energy! It's not a modern city, but it's not a village either. There are virtually no traffic signals or even stop signs anywhere - yet somehow the many drivers manage not to turn the streets into a demolition derby. But beware, pedestrians NEVER have the right-of-way in Cambodia. One important observation to pass along - there's not a single McDonalds, Starbucks, KFC, 7-11, or Pizza Hut to be found anywhere in Phnom Penh - nirvana!



At first glance, you might be forgiven for seeing similarities to their Thai neighbors, but I don't recommend suggesting that to a Cambodian - as the countries have had a not-always friendly co-existence. In fact, it was partly because of fighting with Thailand (Siam) and Vietnam, that the Cambodians asked for help from the French - who then promptly took control of the city too! So, interestingly, you will see a great deal of French language and architecture here in Phnom Penh, as well.

The Bloody Khmer Rouge
Cambodia has realistically only been open to tourism since around 1998. The Khmer Rouge (communist guerilla party) overtook this city, Phnom Penh, in 1975, and forced everyone out to work on farms. Phnom Penh, and other cities, were completely emptied - left to decay, as all citizens were made to live in the countryside.

The horror of Pol Pot's regime was just beginning, as the Khmer Rouge begin to systematically murder anyone who did not fit their vision of the future. Foreigners were killed immediately, as well as anyone who could not work on the farm - including those who simply wore glasses! I had lunch today with someone whose grandafther and uncle were both killed by the Khmer Rouge.

In fact, estimates of the dead range from 1 to 3 million! And that is out of a population of just 7 million. Imagine... one out of every 7 people in your own country being killed by your "leaders."

This country's nightmare ended just a few years ago. They held their first elections in 1998, the same year as the final surrender of remaining Khmer Rouge forces.

My best day in China!

July 26, 2006 - Yangshou, China

These are my last days in China - and they happen to be the best! Yesterday was everything I had hoped to experience from China. Perfect!

Traveling with my friend, Shawn from Shanghai, we rented bicycles and set out on our own adventure to experience the countryside. We had no guide, just a vague sense of direction - and a healthy tolerance for making wrong turns.

I hope you can see these photos (I will share more with you when I return to the USA). The scenery around the Li River is spectacular! Everywhere we traveled, we marveled at just how stunning the views were.

But even more interesting to me, were the people we met along the way. For example, at one farm house we stopped to say hi to an older man and woman, and inquired about the fruit they were eating. (Translated as "Yellow Skin Fruit" in Chinese, and tasting both sweet and sour. Yummy!) But instead of just eating from the tree, the woman insisted that we take the already-prepared fruit from inside her own house! Delightful.

At another stop, we met a young mother and her kids. The children were a bit frightened of me, but I tried to lighten the mood by pretending to play mahjong with them. I was doing my best to get them to see foreigners as friendly and not so scary. But sadly, there was a "part 2" to that story, and it was negative. I had paid 1 yuan (12 cents) to buy the children some frozen treats from their mother's roadside store. After that, however, I noticed that more and more children were appearing from the village. Several started to grab at me and then gesture to their mouth, as if they wanted something to eat. Shawn tells me that the mother had told the kids "If you say hello to this foreigner he will buy you some candy." We really wanted to yell at her for setting such a bad example. Instead of having fun simply interacting with someone from a different land, the mother had taught the kids that foreigners are a target to harass for money. Very disapointing.

But by far, the overwhelming feeling today was one of awe over the stunning beauty of the region. We got lost a few times, and our trek stretched out for well over 7 hours! But didn't really care. We saw things that most tourists would never stumble across - while carrying our bikes up rocky cliffs, or trying to keep our balance while riding along the narrow walls of rice paddies. I took literally hundreds of photos!

Later though, I discovered the danger of that beauty. I was walking backward while attempting to take a photo, and boom! I fell right into a hole in the road! Nearly broke my freaking leg! Hilarious!

That evening, after scrubbing away layers of dirt and grime, we were treated to a different type of entertainment. It was a theatrical extravanganza that has all of China flocking to attend. What's so unique about "Impression: Liu Sanjie?" Well, first of all, it is directed by Zhang Yimou, the man who directed such films as "Raise the Red Lantern;" "Hero;" and "House of Flying Daggers." (Note: If you haven't seen those films yet, rush right out and rent the DVD tonight - especially "Hero." They are great!)

The other unique aspect of the show is that it features 600 performers. Yup... SIX HUNDRED dancers and singers! When was the last time you saw 600 people choreographed in anything? But what makes this most impressive, is that the "stage" is the Li River! Every one of the performers is actually floating on the river - usually just on small bamboo rafts. Incredible. A perfect ending to a perfect day. All in all, I could not ask for a better ending to my time in China.

Racism along the river

July 25: Li Jiang, China

I am so pleased to be traveling this week with my Shanghai friend, Shawn. (He's the not-so-furry one in the photo.) He has brought along his laptop, so I can upload photos immediately. It's fun to share these pics with you so quickly, so thanks for checking them out!

But more importantly, I am fortunate to have a native Chinese person with me, to help me overcome the HUGE language difficulties I have experienced in this country. As a foreigner, it has been nearly impossible to get around - with his help, however, things have gone much more smooth.

Making little girls cry
Today, Shawn and I left the city of Guilin to begin a 4-hour journey down the Li River to Yangshou. On the shuttle bus, I sat near a 3-year old girl who was absolutely in shock to see her first non-Chinese person. Unfortunately, her gandfather next to her muttered something along the lines of "Oh no, a damn foreigner" and the little girl immediately began crying with fear. I did my best to say "Ni Hao" (Hello), etc - but her racist grandfather kept muttering negative comments. Shawn and I wanted to smack the old man, but that would only prove that his fear-mongering was right!

On the ship I realized that I was, indeed, the only non-Asian on board. Despite the fact that we were surrounded by some jaw-dropping scenery, I frequently found that people were taking pictures of me instead of the mountains! "Hello, hello" I would hear - and then I'd look up to see small children waving at me from the upper deck.

But it also worked in reverse. At one point I was a bit afraid to say hello to a nice-looking lad nearby, for fear of having nothing in common to talk about. But once I initiated, I discovered that he was quite adept at English. Turns out, he had been hoping to have a picture with me, as well. So here's a shot of my new friend "Yitian."

Obviously there are many types of racism. Some are quite vile and ignorant, while other types are just based on fear of not knowing what to say. Maybe the more we travel, we can help to erase a little of both!


Fishing with Birds
This is kind of cool, I think. Around Guilin, some fisherman are well-known for using trained comorants (wearing collars with leashes) to go out and snatch fish on their command. The birds will return the fish to the boat, in exchange for a small treat.


The gorgeous Li River

Here are a few shots of that jaw-dropping scenery I just mentioned:

Frogs, dogs, and snakes: Are you hungry yet?

July 24, 2006 Guilin China

I love travel! Something so mundane as going out for coffee can turn into a memorable experience.

At the restaurant, I pointed at the picture of the chocolate cake in the English menu. “No have” said the waitress. So I pointed at the picture of the fruit tart. “No have. Please read words.’ Apparently, the pictures were just items that they WISHED they could offer, but that I must order from the text listings. The only problem was, those words didn't seem to make sense.

Can you see the picture of my menu? (An actual photo.) For dessert, I was encouraged to order the “Baked (or stewed) Frog Ovals” – which it turns out, are actually Frog Ovaries. Quite a delicacy in these parts, I’m told.

No thanks. I’ll play it safe with the cheesecake, I guess. Well, I got exactly what I ordered: a cake – with CHEESE on top! Yup, a slice of mozzarella melted over the top of a creamy sponge cake. And just to show how fancy a joint this is, they garnished my “cheese cake” with slices of cucumber and tomatoes, with a sprig of parsley on top. Tasty! (Actual photo of my cheesey-cake.)

To be fair, I've had some great meals in China. For example, sizzling beef with melon; fragrant chicken in pandanus; and a pumpkin soup to die for! But if you have a taste for something a little less common, how about a taste of fresh SNAKE in a red wine sauce? Or maybe fresh DOG meat, sautéed in a hot pot? The turtle is always fresh, swimming barely alive just near the table.

And don't worry too much about proper table manners. The man at the table next to me at dinner tonight apparently had some fat stuck in his teeth, so he did what came naturally – he turned and spat it out, right on the ground.

Bon appetit!

Levitating - at 280MPH!!!

Shanghai: July 24

First...
Did you know that Kentucky Fried Chicken does more business in China than it does in the USA? There is a KFC on almost very block here, it seems!

Did you know that Pizza Hut is considered an UPSCALE "fine-dining" experience by Chinese? People literally wait in line for an hour to be seated by a maitre'd, and then brag that they've been to Pizza Hut for a night out?




"On Cloud 9"
Just to give you an idea how Shanghai is truly "reaching for the stars" - check this out. This is the Jinmao tower, currently the tallest in Shanghai at 90 stories. Shawn and I had cocktails in the posh bar called "Cloud 9" on the 88th floor.




The architecture is wild! Sometimes fun, sometimes gawdy. (As perhaps in the case of this, the Oriental Pearl Tower in the Pudong New area.



Levitating Bullet Train
But my most awe-inspiring experience in modern Shanghai was simply taking the train to the airport. But this is no simple train - it is the world's only commercial MagLev bullet train! As it pulled into the station, there was no sound - just a "whoosh" of air as the train slid sliently by - it's magnets levitating it just a hair above it's concrete track.

I was pressed back into my seat as the train quietly and gently accelerated - up to over 430kph! That's nearly 280 mph! Can you believe that? That is the fastest I have ever traveled while still on the ground! (Although, technically, we were floating just above the ground.)

Shanghai Surprise!

July 20: Shanghai China

What a different view of China! I knew that Shanghai would be unique, but I was not prepared for how swiftly this city is dashing into the future. The skyline is straight out of a sci-fi movie, and the people clearly have no desire to be like their counterparts in Beijing.

Most impressive to me is the Shanghai approach to traffic control. While Beijing has focused on building overpasses and tunnels to make pedestrians walk around traffic, Shanghai has decided to make the traffic go around pedestrians. There are many elevated roads, and crosswalks are clearly lighted to allow pedestrians to cross busy streets. In fact, at most intersections there are police who halt cars and reprimand people who try to jaywalk. It's a MUCH friendlier city for walking! And a much cleaner city too (in terms of litter), although the smog is still quite bad here.


"Movin' on up..."
Much to my surprise, I am personally living in HIGH LUXURY (quite literally). My Internet friend, Shawn, has arranged a hotel for me that is truly 4-star quality. This two-room business suite would easily cost over $400 per night in New York City, but Shawn has arranged it for less than $60! I have breakfast by room service each morning, a full gym, pool and sauna, and 24-hour Internet service. And did I mention that I am just below the penthouse level, on the 28th floor of a downtown high-rise? A guy could get used to this kind of lifestyle!

Fascinating history:
Shanghai has a remarkable history - and a bit like the USA's "Wild West" days. In Chinese Imperial times, it was a small fishing village. In the mid 1800's the British found it useful for selling opium to the Chinese - and they started the "Opium Wars" to protect that trade. The British took control of half the city, and the French and Americans claimed parts of the city as their own, as well. Surprisingly, each group was able to (forcibly or commercially) stake out their own corner of the city as sovereign turf. They were not subject to Chinese law - only to the laws of their respective consulates! It became a wild city, full of 1930's-style extravagance and decadance. Sadly, Chinese were mostly excluded from this wealth and privilege - and were used mostly just as slave-labor in their sweat shops, etc.

The Japanese subjugation threw most of this into disarray in the 40's, and shortly thereafter the Chinese Communist Party was born - right here in Shanghai. Although they rallied to expel the foreigners, wean addicts off opium, and teach the prostitutes another trade - Communist rule was like throwing a dark wet blanket over the former giddy party capital of Asia. It was only 16 years ago, that the "modernization" of the country was announced - and Shanghai was tapped to take the lead. And jeez... it appears that it has never looked back!

Me: As a "tourist attraction!"
While walking along the river, I was approached by three young Chinese. Usually I ignore people who start talking to me - as they inevitably only want to sell me Chairman Mao "Rolexes" etc. But I could see that these three were holding up a camera, so I thought they wanted me to take their photo together in front of the skyline. But they actually wanted to take a photo of ME. So, flanked by two of them, the other snapped our photo. I tried to chat a bit with them, but could only get that they were students from Yunnan Province - or was it Hunan? Regardless, this hasn't happened to me since I lived in Thailand years ago, so it was quite good for the old ego. (Emphasis on the "old" in that comment.)

Naked Men with Ropes

July 18 - Shennong Stream & Yangtze River

Got your attention with the title, didn't I? "Naked men with ropes?" Well, me too. I was promised that our little tour would get to see the world-famous "trackers" of Shennon Stream today. Muscular men who pulled boats through the treacherous waters, using only ropes and brute force. And the description in the guide is that the men are completely naked. I signed up for that one quite quickly, as you might imagine.

But these guys were fully clothed! What happened to the "naked" bit? Well, they stopped doing that in 1999, I heard - but just never printed up new brochures. {sigh} But it was quite an experience to see these "hunks" (some of them apparently quite old, actually) tugging our little sampans through the rapids, as generations have been doing for thousands of years.

Slow Boat through China

July 16-19 - Yangtze River

I am giddy with excitement to actually be sailing on China's Yangtze River. I can't believe it - a dream come true!

Of course, I had a certain amount of tourist-cheating to go through to get here. I wanted a simple "3-star" type of boat - nothing fancy. But the agent said that "Due to government (something), we cannot book 3-star. You'll have to upgrade to 4-star." Blah, blah, blah. Something about "treating myself to luxury" etc etc. So I was convinced to go with the added luxury. But since I wanted a private room (not wanting to share my cough with a roommate), I then had to pay nearly double the standard rate. But I was content to enjoy some luxury and recuperate in my "4-star" cabin.

Turns out, I was the only non-Chinese on my deck - the 30 other foreigners (on a ship of 200 passengers) had all upgraded to "Deluxe 4-star". Long story short... my room turned out to be the "3-star" accommodation that I had originally expected - but at the "4-star" price.

Fengdu - the 39 Hells

The irony of this so-called "Ghost City" is that it once was a very famous temple for dead folk, situated at the top of a very high peak. But now, a protective wall is being built to protect the temple from being flooded. The town surrounding the temple is gone now - demolished by the people who built it. A "Ghost City" indeed!

But I toured the temple (along with hundreds of others on the ship's tour group), and discover a gruesome and macabre display of the "39 Hells" that a person may encounter if they do not lead a just life. I grew tired of the speech when I realized I was subject to at least 36 of those 39 hells. But the "Hell of the thousand flag-following tourists" was punishment enough for me!

The Damned Yangtze River

July 16, 2006: Chongqing, China


My guidebook calls Chongqing "one of China's most unusual cities" - and I admit that I was impressed. First, over 30 million people live in this area. Yes, 30 million people! That's only slightly less than the entire State of California!

But the layout is stunning, as well. Skyscrapers cling to impossibly-steep ravines that stretch to the river valley far below. Bridges and cable cars intersect the sheer cliff walls, and at at night, the skyline is lit up like a giant disco. It's a cross between Hong Kong, San Francisco and a bit of Vegas, as well.

But I was here to try to see another long-time dream finally come true - to cruise the 3 Gorges on the Yangtze River.

Damned Yangtze
I have traveled some of the World's great rivers: The Nile; The Amazon; The Mississippi - but never the Yangtze - the third-largest river on the planet. I have always been told that it contains some of the greatest views of any river - but those views are disappearing fast.

The Three Gorges Dam is China's biggest engineering project since the Great Wall - and one of the world's most controversial. Now fully constructed, it has begun backing up the water of the Yangtze River for some 400 miles. Once completely full, it will create the largest resevoir in the world - but will also flood an area the size of Singapore - and wash away the homes of up to two million people. The Chinese government has forced populations of entire cities to demolish their own homes and level their town's skyscrapers and temples, to make way for the rising river. In some cases, relics and artifacts dating back thousands of years will be lost forever.


Worse for many, is that the natural scenic beauty of this area will be changed as well. The river will rise almost 500 feet in most places, and dramatically change the views that so many painters and poets have recorded for centuries. By 2009, much of the beauty of the Three Gorges will be under water.

Thus, my mission was to see this wonderful river before that happened.

End the trip early? (And my Chinese name)

July 15: Beijing

A sad posting today. My coughing has gotten considerably worse. In fact, many Chinese look at me terrified when I start my whooping cough - as if I might give them SARS, or something. I just can't seem to get rid of it - and the oppressive heat, pollution, omni-present cigarette smokers, etc, certainly isn't helping.

Thus, I am fairly certain that I'll be looking to end my 'round-the-world journey sooner than later. I'm about halfway through my planned 3-month trek, but I just don't think I'll have the energy to go the distance.

And - on a lighter note:
I finally found an English-speaking travel agent who could help me arrange travel out of Beijing. (I have had to extend my time in Beijing by several days, as I just could not find anyone to help me with independent travel.) I'll be leaving tomorrow.

But the agent also helped me discover my "inner Chinese" heritage, and deduced that my actual name in Chinese was "Long Fei." This means "Flying Dragon" - a rather apt name given my temper of late, don't you agree?

Chinese snot-rockets and other cultural observations

July 14: Beijing, China

Be warned. This entry is not so much a "blog" as it is a diatribe. A rant.

I am cranky. I am growing quite tired of Beijing. And it is so crowded here! Over 36 billion people live in Beijing! Okay... it's only 20 million. But that's still a hell of a lot of people! To try to cross a street is to know what it is like to live on the edge! Beijing drivers are among the worst, most-rude drivers I have EVER seen (surpassing even the murderous taxi drivers in Egypt!). I have nearly been hit TWICE while crossing in a crosswalk while I had the green "walk" symbol.

Do you remember how I said it was "foggy" on the first day I arrived? Well, it ain't fog - it's smog. Pollution hangs over this city every single day, it seems.

It has also rained every day - usually in the form of violent thunderstorms that strike each night. Last night, however, I was not so fortunate - and got caught right in the middle of a near-monsoon. Within minutes, the calm skies turned fierce, and let loose with a downpour of biblical proportions. Of course, in the ensuing chaos it was impossible to find a taxi, as all traffic came to a halt in the flooded streets. So I walked home, umbrella-less, literally drenched from head to toe, and wading through puddles up to my knees.

When not raining, it is so-o-o-o hot. You really need at least 2-3 showers each day, just to keep from reeking. The smoke and dust clog your throat and make it hard to breathe at times. I've actually had a bad respiratory infection for the past week or so, and I'm finding it hard to get rid of it.



Snot rockets and loogie-launching
But walking in China also revealed another danger - the infamous "snot rockets!" Have you seen this before? Blowing your nose directly onto the street without using a tissue? Then they tend to rub their nose with their hand - undoubtedly right before they go to shake hands with some tourist!

But equally disgusting is the apparently-popular Chinese pastime of "loogie launching." The procedure is to cough and cough, then clear your throat and hack up a loogie as big as they can - then launch it clear across the sidewalk full of people ahead. Usually they will do this as near a doorway as possible, undoubtedly so people will track the phlegm into every restaurant, school and business nearby. How in the world can anyone think this is okay?


Please... don't take a seat
Since I'm being disgusting, let me get into the toilet topic. Specifically, the Asian "Squat Toilet." Okay... I DO understand that the "western toilet" may seem equally disgusting to our Asian friends (I mean, touching your bum to something that was just warmed by someone else may not, in fact, be the most sanitary idea). But frankly, I simply cannot master the idea of squatting while "doing your business." Being able to aim properly - while maintaining your balance with your pants down around your ankles and avoiding the puddles around you - takes a feat of gymnastic ability that I doubt even the Chinese Acrobats possess! To make matters worse, it tends to be a "communal activity." Short walls allow for your neighbor to watch and giggle from his stall next door, or even try to start a conversation! At least there should be a door on the front to let us retain what little dignity we Westerners have left during this experience!

And then there's the habit of urinating in public, as well. At least 10 times so far, I have seen men simply whip it out and empty their bladders in the middle of the city: a subway tunnel; the side of a building; even around the corner from a sign that said "toilets."

So, yeah, I'm a little pissed off. But I guess that's better than being pissed on, right?

Hey... that's a GREAT wall!

July 13: Simatai, China

For the last 4 days, I had been trying to arrange a trip to the Great Wall - with no luck. My request did not fit the mass-tourism model, I guess.

I knew that I did NOT want to be stuck on the wall in the middle of hundreds of other tourists, following some flag-waving, shouting tour guide, and fighting the crowds to get a photo that made it look like I was alone. In fact, I WANTED to be alone on the Wall, as I had high hopes that this might be a some-what "spiritual" experience.

Finally, however, I was able to convince the landlord of the apartment that I am renting to drive me in his own car. Despite his advice to go to Badaling, I was insistent that we would need to go about 3.5 hours away, to a section at Simatai. And it was WORTH it!!!

There were only 3-4 other cars in the parking lot - and not a single tour bus! There were only two people selling things, and they were quite laid back. Once on the Wall, my guide and I were virtually alone.

This was an INCREDIBLE experience. Everything I had dreamed it would be - and more. And yes, I had several opportunities to just sit on the wall - looking out at "Inner Mongolia" and the scenery beyond - and contemplate how fortunate I am to see such a historic place.

Flying down from the Great Wall

I also had the good luck to choose the longer path back down - which happened to lead to a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. I was able to ride a wild "Zip Line" (or "Flying Fox") back down to the bottom of the mountain. Imagine if you can, me strapped into a pulley and being launched over the cliff edge, and "flying" across the river valley to the lake below. Thrilling.

Flying through the air below the Great Wall of China - does it get any better than that?

The Forbidden City - Revealed! (Sort of)

July 11: Beijing

At the moment, I am sitting in a Tea Garden, just off the east gate of the "Forbidden City" - the remains of the former Imperial Palace. I have convinced the owner to let me monopolize (I mean "borrow") his computer while I am here.

But the topic of conversation at the moment is the proper way to eat roasted melon seeds. And I have just received a stern lecture. Apparently the female workers here have been giggling about how I tend to suck and chew on the whole seed, instead of just cracking it open to get at the meaty part inside. After the lesson, I was told that "Americans. No do." I think she means we have no cultural aptitude. Hmm... perhaps the fact that I order BEER in a tea house should have been the first clue?

Entry Forbidden!
Yesterday, I walked for what seemed like miles. Past Tiananmen Square, past the portrait of Mao hanging on The Gate of Heavenly Peace; past the Front Gate; until finally I came face to face with the imposing Meridian Gate. All of the time I thought I was already in the so-called "Forbidden City." In fact, I had not yet entered the former Imperial Palace. And guess what? After all that walking, I would STILL not be allowed in, as they had closed the gate only 15 minutes earlier. (Note to self: Read guide books before beginning the walk next time!)

But today I started early in the morning, and allowed myself plenty of time to wander in the footsteps of the Ming, the Qing, and of course, The Last Emperor. I'll spare you the details, but just watch any Chinese "Ghost Story" movie, and you'll know the type of place I was in. I could almost see the swordsmen flying from rooftop to rooftop, or balancing at the top of bamboo trees. And the thought of "raising the red lantern" in front of my favorite concubine's room for my choice of evening foot massage also crossed my mind. It must have been GOOD to be Emperor!

Breaking the rules
So after the 3-hour walk though the Forbidden City (now re-named the "Palace Museum" by the Communist Party, by the way), I walked to the only "mountain" in Beijing. It was created by all of the dirt that was removed from the moat that surrounds the palace grounds. I trudged up hundreds of stairs to find the view that my guidebook promised would be "the best in the city."

But, guess what? After climbing all the way to the top, I found that all of the paths to the viewpoint had been cut off for "renovation." (Damn those 2008 Olympics!) But I had already climbed to the top, so I felt I was OWED a reward (My American sense of entitlement). So I managed to "not see" one of the DO NOT ENTER signs, and tucked under a fallen rope. Shortly, I found myself with a decent view of the whole city below. To be honest, the pictures sucked - due to the bad weather of this week. But at least I was smart enough (sneaky enough) to get what I came for. But within a few seconds, I heard banging on a metal sign, and a security guard was shouting at me. What was he saying? "Have a nice day?" "Hope you get a nice picture?" "Very clever of you to break the rules?" No... it was clear that I needed to get back in line with the masses. ButI'm giggling as I type this, 'cause it was a LOT of fun!

Language Lesson: Whistle while you talk

July 11: Beijing

So, I gotta say... it ain't easy to get around here. Unless you happen to speak Mandarin, that is.

Taxi drivers do not speak any English, and neither do most of the hotel & subway workers that I have met so far. Of course, why should they? This is CHINA, after all. Time to speak Chinese! The problem is, my mouth simply cannot make the sounds that seem to comprise the language - I just don't know how! It seems that it is not WHAT you say, as much as HOW you say it. From what I can tell, the secret to proper pronunciation is to shape your lips as if you are going to whistle - and then shout - all the while speaking backwards!

Example: I tried to buy a subway ticket to Qianmen station. Easy enough, right? Well, it took two people to translate that to the ticket person, who then started loudly CUSSING at me! It seemed she was VERY ANGRY with me. However, I was told that she only wanted to know how many tickets? Well, it sure seemed like she was cussing at me!

YOU STINK!
While I was on the subway yesterday, I smelled something rather foul. I looked at the woman next to me, and thought to myself why she had such poor hygiene. Poor and can't afford a shower? I thought. She looked at me and gave me a bit of a look, as well. After she left, I smelled the odor again. Then it dawned on me. It wasn't the woman who smelled bad - it was ME! Actually, it was my sandals. They literally REEKED of sweat from the jungles of Thailand, etc. Dear god that was embarrassing! (And a great lesson on jumping to conclusions.)

Really sick!
Okay, this is gross.... but on my next subway trip, the guy next to me started vomiting. I am not wearing my sandals today, so it wasn't my fault - really! Now I am sure that this was very unusual, but it is certainly a unique memory of the Beijing subway.

PS: I don't make this stuff up. It really happened.

Crouching Tigers, Hidden Censors

July 11, 2006 - Tiananmen Square, Beijing

It is hard for me to believe that I am actually walking in Tiananmen Square! This square evokes so many very strong emotions for me - and for much of the world. What does Tiananmen Square make YOU think of?

I am reluctant to speak freely about the protests that happened here (and the bloody aftermath), because I know for a fact that Internet communications are heavily censored here in China. (Thanks in part, to American companies such as Yahoo and Cisco Systems, who have helped the Government limit information on the Chinese Internet servers. Just finding that picture was very difficult, as I had to search several unrelated web sites to find it. (And then rename it before posting it.)

The Square Today
But my biggest threat when walking Tiananmen Square today is NOT the government, it is street vendors! Like crouching tigers, they spring into action upon seeing a white face in the crowd - and they are relentless! "Hey Mr. where are you from" begins the sales pitch. Then comes the story of how they are a struggling artist, and how they will take me to see their special exhibition in a nearby building. Or maybe I'd like to buy a copy of Chairman Mao's Little Red Book? No? Well, then, how about a watch with Mao's arms telling the time? Politely saying "no" won't help, as they will just grab you by the arm. I have never seen such agressive hawking since Mano and I were in Istanbul years ago.

Growing infuriated, I finally started ignoring people or - worse - snapping at them. One woman - the 10th to approach me in as many minutes - said "excuse me Mr..." and I snapped at her - "NO!" Then I looked at her sad face and saw that she was holding a camera. She simply wanted me to take her picture. I felt SO BAD! So of course I took her photo and she took mine. It is one of the better pics taken of me that day. That should teach me a lesson!

China: Mickey meets Mao!

July 10, 2006: Beijing China

Mano has gone back to San Francisco - and I started missing him the minute he got in the taxi! So I am traveling alone again, and headed to a new country.

Beijing China
I arrived in Beijing by plane yesterday, and have been disappointed by the weather. Gray and rainy skies blanket this huge city, and a thick fog makes it nearly impossible to see even across the street.

In fact, earlier today, I stumbled across a group of tourists taking pictures of nothing, it seemed to me. As I strained to see the object of their attention, I could just make out the familiar red and green colors of Chairman Mao's portrait hanging on the Gate of Heavenly Peace. I had been walking across Tiananmen Square and didn't even know it!

But, as planned, I proudly wore my capitalist Mickey Mouse t-shirt and asked someone to take my picture with Mao - Mickey meets Mao!