Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Crouching Tigers, Hidden Censors


July 11, 2006 - Tiananmen Square, Beijing

It is hard for me to believe that I am actually walking in Tiananmen Square! This square evokes so many very strong emotions for me - and for much of the world. What does Tiananmen Square make YOU think of?

I am reluctant to speak freely about the protests that happened here (and the bloody aftermath), because I know for a fact that Internet communications are heavily censored here in China. (Thanks in part, to American companies such as Yahoo and Cisco Systems, who have helped the Government limit information on the Chinese Internet servers. Just finding that picture was very difficult, as I had to search several unrelated web sites to find it. (And then rename it before posting it.)

The Square Today
But my biggest threat when walking Tiananmen Square today is NOT the government, it is street vendors! Like crouching tigers, they spring into action upon seeing a white face in the crowd - and they are relentless! "Hey Mr. where are you from" begins the sales pitch. Then comes the story of how they are a struggling artist, and how they will take me to see their special exhibition in a nearby building. Or maybe I'd like to buy a copy of Chairman Mao's Little Red Book? No? Well, then, how about a watch with Mao's arms telling the time? Politely saying "no" won't help, as they will just grab you by the arm. I have never seen such agressive hawking since Mano and I were in Istanbul years ago.

Growing infuriated, I finally started ignoring people or - worse - snapping at them. One woman - the 10th to approach me in as many minutes - said "excuse me Mr..." and I snapped at her - "NO!" Then I looked at her sad face and saw that she was holding a camera. She simply wanted me to take her picture. I felt SO BAD! So of course I took her photo and she took mine. It is one of the better pics taken of me that day. That should teach me a lesson!

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